Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
